Best fit to your rough survey. Centimetres. Rotated to sit the way the rooms actually meet: the 284 wall along the top is the bottom of the main room. New door in the 144 wall on the right; murphy bed opposite, on the wall where the existing door is today. Eight sides, including a 7 cm kink at E.
room floormurphy bed footprint, downproposed new door
The room
8.7 m² 3.49 × 2.84 m max.
Fit against your survey
Wall
Yours
Fitted
Diff
Top (window wall)
349
349.0
0.0
Shared, kitchen side
284
283.5
−0.5
S1 (new door wall)
144
145.2
+1.2
S2
131
132.2
+1.2
the 7 cm kink
7
8.2
+1.2
S3
43
44.2
+1.2
S4
46
47.2
+1.2
Bed wall (47+92+39)
178
178.5
+0.5
Nothing moved more than 1.2 cm to make it close — that is a good survey for a freehand one with a phone angle app.
Angles
Corner
Measured
Fitted
D
144°
151°
E1
195°
192°
E2
198°
195°
F
143°
148°
G
128°
126°
The 7 cm kink at E was the missing piece. With two corners there rather than one the room has eight sides, whose angles must total 1080° — and your five readings plus three right angles come to 1078°. Every figure you took now has a home.
The useful coincidence
Your 284 here and the 283 in the main room are the same wall. One centimetre apart, measured from opposite sides on different days. That ties the two surveys together — the dining room sits directly behind the prep run, exactly as you said.
Murphy bed on the old door wall
Bed goes on the 178 wall, in place of the existing door, folding down 210 into the room and leaving 139 cm clear to the shared kitchen wall. Entry from the new door in the 144 stays clear with the bed down.
The tight bit is the wall length, not the floor. A standard double housing is around 165 wide and that wall is 178 — roughly 13 cm of slack in total, so 6 or 7 each side. That is buildable but leaves no room for a return, a skirting detail or an out-of-square wall.
Two things would ease it: a 135 mattress rather than a 150, or letting the housing run into the angled corner at G, which is dead space anyway.
Worth measuring that wall properly before ordering. Everything here is fitted to ±2.4 cm, and 13 cm of slack does not survive much error.
Blocking up the 92 opening is what buys the wall, so that decision and the bed are the same decision.
Still needed
Ceiling confirmed at 2400. The cabinet is 205 high and needs about 208 of diagonal to tilt in, so there is 32 cm to spare on the swing and 35 above the closed cabinet. It fits, and the last open question on this room has closed.
The pipe boxing overlaps the bed. It runs 153 from the back wall along the passage wall, and the bed’s foot lands at 136 — so the boxing continues 17 cm past the foot of the bed, 9 cm out from the wall. That is exactly where a foot leg would sit. Worth checking the bed’s leg positions against it before ordering.
22 high is above skirting height, so it cannot be hidden by a normal skirting board. It is either a feature, a deeper skirting along that wall, or it goes.
It is radiator pipework, and that radiator is being upsized for the heat pump anyway — so the boxing is in play rather than fixed. But the dining floor is not being opened, so re-routing means either another surface run or lifting the floor after all. Worth deciding alongside the emitter, not separately.
Window width. Position confirmed — top wall, right-hand end, past the foot of the bed. Drawn 100 wide as a placeholder; the actual width still needs measuring, along with the cill height.
Ceiling height — murphy beds need roughly 210 of clear height plus the housing.
Where along the 144 wall the new door sits, and its width. Drawn 85 wide, hard against the shared-wall corner.
A proper tape measure on the 178 wall before any murphy bed is ordered — 13 cm of slack is inside the survey’s own error.
Your survey, marked upThe room
Window end, bed head in the corner.
Window with the bed alongside.
Existing door, with the angled wall beside it.
Wardrobe against the angled corner.
The walk from the kitchen
Leaving the main room — blue tape marking the new door line.